Since its debut in 1978, the Arceau collection has occupied a distinctive place within the world of Hermès watchmaking. Designed by Henri d’Origny, it is instantly recognisable for its understated asymmetry and subtle equestrian references — a recurring theme deeply woven into the history of Hermès. Yet beneath its apparent simplicity, the collection has long served as a canvas for the Maison’s most extraordinary artistic craftsmanship.
The new Arceau Cavalier en Formes, at first glance, resembles a miniature artwork displayed in a gallery rather than a traditional watch face. Beneath a sapphire crystal hand-painted on both sides, layers of colour, texture and transparency create an almost theatrical sense of depth. Engraved foliage appears in the background, while geometric blue forms seem suspended in space. At the centre of the composition stands a meticulously engraved yellow gold horse, the undisputed protagonist of the scene.
The creation draws inspiration from the graphic universe of Italian artist Gianpaolo Pagni. Taking as his starting point an equestrian lithograph preserved within the Émile Hermès collection, Pagni deconstructs the figure of the rider and reimagines it through a cubist language of shapes and colour. Circles, squares and bold blocks of pigment replace the rider’s body, while the horse remains intact. The result sits somewhere between modernist painting and contemporary illustration, giving the dial a visual presence rarely encountered in the world of haute horlogerie.
At six o’clock, a Lift tourbillon immediately draws the eye. Its cage takes inspiration from the double-H motif found in the historic elevator at 24 Faubourg Saint-Honoré, Hermès’ legendary Parisian address. Less visible but no less impressive is the minute repeater powered by the in-house H1924 calibre. One of watchmaking’s most prestigious complications, it allows the watch to chime the hours, quarters and minutes on demand — a feat that remains among the highest expressions of mechanical mastery.
Housed within a 43mm white gold case and paired with an abyss-blue alligator strap crafted in the Maison’s own workshops, the Arceau Cavalier en Formes is as much a work of art as it is a timepiece. Where exclusivity is often measured by numbers alone, the rarity of the Arceau Cavalier en Formes feels almost secondary. What truly distinguishes it is the way it brings together contemporary art, traditional craftsmanship and exceptional horology within a single object — one that remains unmistakably Hermès.
