Each late summer, Geneva transforms into a stage where watchmaking expresses itself freely. The Geneva Watch Days, both an intimate and cosmopolitan event, embody this unique energy where major maisons meet independent brands, while collectors, retailers, and enthusiasts gather in a vibrant, relaxed atmosphere.
Among the many novelties unveiled at this 6th edition, three collaborations stood out in particular. Three visions that reveal how contemporary watchmaking has become a true realm of expression, at the crossroads of art and technology.
Bvlgari Octo Finissimo X Lee Ufan
At Bulgari, the Octo Finissimo has been transformed into a philosophical mirror under the influence of Lee Ufan. The Korean artist, based in Japan and recognized as a leading figure in contemporary art, offered the Roman maison a radical interpretation. The dial, reduced to a pure mirror effect, seems to absorb light and suspend time, crossed only by two black hands that stand out like minimalist strokes on a blank canvas.
The hand-finished titanium case embodies Bulgari’s architectural precision, while the caseback bears the artist’s handwritten signature, turning each piece into an intimate work of art. Limited to 150 pieces and powered by the ultra-thin BvL 138 caliber, this Octo Finissimo transcends mere timekeeping to become an experience of contemplation. For Lee Ufan, time is not a datum—it is a sensation.
M.A.D.1S “Grow Your Dreams” X Yinka Ilori
In contrast to this meditative minimalism, M.A.D. Editions has chosen to embrace the colorful exuberance of Yinka Ilori. The British-Nigerian designer, renowned for his striking public installations and bold chromatic compositions, brings his universe to life in a series titled Grow Your Dreams. Three limited editions—named Sun, Nature, and Water—reinterpret the M.A.D.1S in a vibrant expression of Ilori’s imaginative world.
The colors explode like a declaration of joy, from the rotor engraved with organic patterns and tinted in vibrant shades to the numerals on the dial, redesigned by Ilori in his singular visual language. The deliberately mismatched straps, textured with botanical motifs, add a touch of controlled irreverence, a nod to the freedom of creating without boundaries. Distribution by lottery—a ritual unique to M.A.D. Editions—extends this playful, communal dimension, turning ownership into a shared experience. With Ilori, the watch becomes a visual language, a burst of vitality, and a reflection of a constantly evolving imagination.
Zenith DEFY Chronograph X USM
The third standout collaboration of the 2025 Geneva Watch Days brings together two Swiss icons united by a shared passion for precision and modernity. Zenith, the watchmaker from Le Locle and guardian of the legendary El Primero, joins forces with USM, creator of the modular Haller furniture system, to reinvent the original DEFY in a chronograph version where watchmaking engages in dialogue with interior architecture.
The result is a watch with angular lines and a dial presented in USM’s iconic colors, from deep green to gentian blue, with shades of golden yellow and bright orange. The chronograph hand ends in a luminous sphere, a subtle nod to the USM joints that have structured a design turned cult classic for decades. More than a detail, it is a sign of complicity, sealing the meeting of two worlds. Every element of this piece exudes precision and clarity, as if Zenith’s mechanics and USM’s modular aesthetics were always meant to converge. The DEFY Chronograph USM is therefore not just a timepiece, but an embodiment of the Swiss spirit, at the intersection of design and watchmaking.
These three creations, as different as they are unexpected, chart an inspiring map of what contemporary watchmaking can offer when it ventures beyond its traditional boundaries. Three ways of interpreting time, three universes that transform the dial into a realm of expression. By weaving together art, color, and architecture, the 2025 Geneva Watch Days establish themselves as a true laboratory of creativity. Here, collaborations are not marketing gimmicks but genuine creative experiences that enrich the imagination of watchmaking.
